Rodents are continually trying to make your home their home. They are constantly looking for sources of food, protection from the elements, places to breed, and safe havens to raise their young. Understanding where pests hide and breed is the first step to keeping them in their place.
Mice Control tips
Mice are mainly nocturnal; however, house mice and meadow voles may be active during the day at some locations. Seeing mice during daylight hours does not necessarily mean that a high population is present, although this is usually true for rats.
Mice usually bear a litter of five to six young, following a 21 to 23-day gestation period. White-footed mice may have more than one litter per year, and house mice living indoors can have up to 10 litters per year.
Young mice are weaned at about 21days, and females can mate at about 35 to 49 days. Lifespan is usually short, ranging from four to 20 months. Mice do not hibernate, but white-footed mice may become completely inactive for a few days when winter weather is severe.
The nest of a mouse is usually ball-shaped and consists of shredded fibrous material such as paper, burlap, and stems, leaves, twigs, etc. It may be lined with hairs, feathers and shredded cloth.
The meadow vole commonly constructs underground tunnels and surface runways with numerous entrances. Similarly, house mice construct runways under flat surfaces such as plywood, sheeting or boards.
White-footed mice spend a great deal of time in trees. Occasionally they re-furbish abandoned bird or squirrel nests, by adding a protective “roof” of twigs and leaves. Generally, all mice nest at, or below ground level, or in buildings.
Mice possess amazing physical capabilities that enable them to gain entry to structures by climbing, crawling, jumping or gnawing. Mice are also good swimmers, particularly meadow voles which are known to cross open water to seek food and shelter.
However, the house mouse out-performs all mice in physical capabilities which makes control of it more difficult. Also, house mice constantly explore their environment and can be found in a wider range of locations.
Most mice quickly detect new objects in their environment but, unlike rats, do not fear them. Therefore, they will almost immediately enter bait stations and traps or cross glueboards, and willingly sample new food items.
Studies indicate that mice normally travel within an area averaging 3 to 10 m (10 to 30 ft.) in diameter to obtain food, shelter and water.
Scampering and scratching sounds in the walls of your home at night, signs of gnawing or chewing, or damaged food packages can mean you have an infestation of mice or rats. Other signs include droppings and urine, burrows or holes in and around foundation walls, or tracks on dusty surfaces. Mice and rats are prolific breeders. Tackle the problem of occasional invaders right away to avoid a severe infestation.
The house mouse has large ears and is light brown to dark grey with a lighter colour on its belly. It is often found in urban areas. The deer mouse is brown or grey with a white belly and feet. The white colour on the underside of the tail is an easy way to spot a deer mouse. It may invade buildings near fields and woodlands in the fall.
Why are mice and rats dangerous to our health?
Mice and rats are carriers of disease, and can damage property. The deer mouse is the most common carrier of the deadly Hantavirus.
Rats and mice spread over 35 diseases. These diseases can be spread to humans directly, through handling of rodents, through contact with rodent feces, urine, or saliva, or through rodent bites. Diseases carried by rodents can also be spread to humans indirectly, through ticks, mites or fleas that have fed on an infected rodent.
How can I prevent and control mice and rats?
Prevention is key in controlling rats and mice problems in the home.
Rodent-proof your home
The first line of defence is to get rid of easy entry points. Mice can squeeze through cracks as small as a dime, while rats can enter through a quarter-sized hole. Even the small gaps created by worn thresholds under doors will allow mice access to your home.
Use metal weather stripping under doors, and weather strip windows.
Patch cracks in foundations.
Stuff steel wool around pipes before caulking or plastering.
Cover dryer vents, attic vents or soffits with fine mesh metal screening.
Make your home less appealing to rodents
Remove cosy nesting sites in unused clutter around the house and garage.
Cut tall grass and weeds back from the house.
Secure garbage in containers with tight-fitting lids.
Raise woodpiles about 30 centimetres (1 foot) off the ground. Place them away from the house.
Never place fatty or oily food waste, eggs or milk products in the composter.
Use a layer of heavy metal mesh between the soil and the bottom of the composter.
Eliminate water sources like leaky taps, sweating pipes and open drains.
Keep the kitchen clean and store dry food and dry pet food in metal or glass containers.
Rodent control has developed throughout history but has always remained constant around traps and poisons. The main difference between the rodent control products you can buy today, and those of the past, is the level of sophistication and efficiency.
As with any form of do-it-yourself pest control, correctly identifying the rodent you are dealing with is the first step in the removal or prevention process. No matter what types of rodents you have; rats, mice, moles, gophers, or any other kind of pest in the rodent category, there is a specific solution and we can help you get rid of them.
We Make Rodent Control Easy
When you need to get rid of rodents, the process can be simple with the right repellents, bait stations, cages, and other kinds of extermination supplies. As you shop through our website you will notice how easy it is to find products for just about any type of rodent you need to eradicate.
Our products are top of the line and we are constantly working hard to ensure that you get the rodent control products that work the best and will be worth your money. As an additional bonus, we offer FREE SHIPPING on everything we sell!
Rodent Poison or Trap?
When you have a rodent infestation, you want the best method of elimination available. Knowing whether to buy some kind of deterrent, poison, or baited-trap might seem confusing.
The truth is that most of them work great. If you’re not sure if you want to use a rodent killer, you can buy some live rodent traps and release them away from your home or property. If you don’t mind killing rodents, we have some of the best rodent traps available on the market today.
Urine and droppings
Take precautions before and during clean up of rodent-infested areas. Before cleaning, trap the rodents and seal up any entryways to ensure that no rodents can get in. Continue trapping for a week. If no rodents are captured, the active infestation has been eliminated and enough time has passed so that any infectious virus in the rodent’s urine/droppings or nesting material is no longer infectious.
Before starting clean up of the space, ventilate the space by opening the doors and windows for at least 30 minutes to allow fresh air to enter the area. Use cross-ventilation and leave the area during the airing-out period.
Attics, basements crawlspaces, and other storage areas
Before cleaning attics, basements, crawlspaces and other storage areas, it is necessary to completely remove the existing rodent infestation by trapping. When there is no evidence of infestation, wait about 5 days before beginning to clean these areas. Before cleaning the space, ventilate the area by opening the doors and windows for at least 30 minutes to allow fresh air to enter the area and to remove potentially contaminated air from the area. Use cross-ventilation and leave the area during the airing-out period.
When cleaning attics, basements, crawlspaces and other storage areas:
•Wear rubber, latex, or vinyl gloves when cleaning up urine, droppings, or nesting materials. Note that a dust mask may provide some protection against dust, molds, and insulation fibers, but does not protect against viruses.
•Spray any urine, droppings, and nesting materials with either a bleach and water solution (1 parts bleach to 9 parts water) or a household disinfectant prepared according to the label instructions for dilution and disinfection time. Soak well. This will inactivate any virus. Use a paper towel or rag to pick up the materials and dispose of them.
•Mop floors after spraying them using bleach/water solution or a disinfectant. Dirt floors can be sprayed with either bleach and water solution or a disinfectant.
•If exposed insulation has become contaminated with urine and droppings, it should be placed into plastic bags for removal.
•To remove any potentially contaminated materials from storage vessels/boxes: ?First, move the storage vessels/boxes outside and place them in an area that is well-ventilated and exposed to direct sunlight. The outside of the storage vessels/boxes can be disinfected using bleach and water solution or disinfectant solution;
?Next, remove the potentially contaminated materials while in the sunlit, ventilated area. Remain upwind so that any dust or debris is not blown toward your face. Some contaminated stored materials, such as clothing, books, etc. can be decontaminated by following the recommended methods of disinfection provided in the table below; items that are no longer needed can be discarded.
•Dispose of any cardboard boxes contaminated with urine or droppings. Plastic, glass, or metal containers can be disinfected by spraying with the bleach and water solution or disinfectant. Then, using a rag or paper towel, wipe up the urine or droppings and dispose of the waste.
•Clean countertops, cabinets, and drawers with disinfectant or bleach and water solution.
•Decontaminate gloves with disinfectant or bleach and water solution. Wash hands well with soap and warm water.
Recommended methods of decontamination
Clothing, Bedding, Stuffed Animals
Books, Papers and other Non-washable items
Launder potentially contaminated bedding, clothing, or stuffed animals with hot water and detergent. Use rubber, latex, vinyl, or nitrile gloves when handling contaminated laundry. Machine-dry laundry on a high setting or hang it to air dry in the sun.
Laundry detergent breaks down the virus’s lipid envelope, rendering it harmless. Additionally, heat generated by the clothes dryer will also ensure that the virus is noninfectious. However, the use of a clothes dryer alone is not recommended as the sole treatment because not all dryers reach the necessary temperature. A temperature of 45 degrees Celsius, or about 115 degrees Fahrenheit, is required to inactivate hantaviruses.
Shampoo rugs and upholstered furniture with a commercial disinfectant or with a commercial-grade steam cleaner or shampoo.
You may leave books, papers, and other items that cannot be cleaned with a liquid disinfectant or thrown away, outdoors in the sunlight for several hours, or in an indoor area free of rodents for approximately 1 week before cleanup. After that time, the virus should no longer be infectious. Wear rubber, latex, vinyl, or nitrile gloves and wipe the items with a cloth moistened with disinfectant.
Once excreted into the environment by the rodent, hantaviruses can survive in the environment and remain infectious for a period of 2-3 days. Ultraviolet rays in sunlight inactivate hantaviruses.
Heavy rodent infestation
Special precautions should be used for cleaning homes or buildings with heavy rodent infestation. The special precautions may also apply to vacant dwellings that have attracted large numbers of rodents and to dwellings and other structures where hantavirus has been confirmed in the rodent population.
Workers who are either hired specifically to perform a clean-up or are asked to do so as part of their work activities should contact their local or state health department, local or state occupational health and safety authority (OSHA) or CDC for information about preventing rodent-borne diseases.
Persons involved in the clean-up of heavy rodent infestations should wear the protective equipment listed here:
•coveralls (disposable, if possible);
•rubber boots or disposable shoe covers;
•rubber, latex, or vinyl gloves;
•and an appropriate respiratory protection device, such as a half-mask air-purifying (or negative-pressure) respirator with a high-efficiency particulate air (HEPA) filter or a powered air-purifying respirator (PAPR) with HEPA filters. Follow local and state requirement regarding pulmonary function and fit testing before beginning any work requiring the use of a respirator.
•Personal protective gear should be decontaminated upon removal at the end of the day. All potentially infective waste material (including respirator filters) from clean-up operations that cannot be burned or deep-buried on site should be double-bagged in appropriate plastic bags. The bagged material should then be labeled as infectious (if it is to be transported) and disposed of in accordance with local requirements for infectious waste.
Air ducts (heating and cooling ventilation systems)
When there is evidence that rodents have access to heating and cooling ventilation systems, it is best to contact a professional rodent exterminating service to remove them. Companies specializing in duct cleaning are familiar with the particular problems and risks associated with rodent infestation in ventilation systems.